About Us
Willoweave are a small family business located near the ancient City of York.
Willoweave supply living willow and interweave fencing panels manufactured from coppiced willow grown on the Vale of York. Coppicing is a sustainable system that provides a renewable source of raw material when harvested on a 2 to 3 year cycle.
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Willoweave welcome the opportunity to speak directly to both existing customers and potential new customers, contact details can be found on the contact page.
Living Willow for 2009
We have had a busy winter at willoweave both supplying and installing fencing and also supplying living willow for “fedges” and living willow structures. As spring approaches and the willow starts its growth for the season our harvesting stops, to make sure that you obtain any living willow for planting this year now is the time to contact us
Willow at Wikpedia
Find about willow and add facts of your own at Wikpedia HERE
Coppice Willow
This is a simple procedure done by cutting all the top growth to ground level in late winter.
How to:
Year 1 – in the spring, plant the dormant willow cuttings in the soil (simply push them in a few inches), leaving 2 or 3 buds above the level of the soil. Or plant plugs. Provide ample water throughout the growing season.
Year 2 and onwards – in late winter prune all the rods back to the point from which they grew the previous year. Provide ample water throughout the growing season.
Note: the growth that has been cut off can be placed in water to stimulate the catkins, or it can be used for basketry, living willow structures, twig furniture, wattle fencing and more.
Positive impacts on the ecology
Willow has been found to increase the biodiversity of an area over previous land uses, including sheep grazed pastures and arable crops where a low biodiversity predominates. Ecological studies of the large areas of SRWC planted in Yorkshire for the ARBRE project clearly demonstrated that willow plantations never displace species from an area and that the overall biodiversity, including ground vegetation, birds, butterflies and invertebrates, is improved (Rich and Sage, 2001).
Mammals: A minimum of 10 species have been observed in SRWC, including the Brown Hare, Stoat, Mice, Vole, Shrew, Fox and Rabbit. These include important food resources for larger carnivores.
Flora: 151 species of plant have been recorded growing in SRWC at sites across in England. These provide, both directly and indirectly, food for butterflies and many other insects and their predators. This diversity of ground flora is also important in regulating weed control by providing competition for resources and preventing domination of individual plant species. Floral diversity also increases the habitat complexity which will encourage a wider diversity of beneficial predatory invertebrates important for controlling pest species.
Birds: Due to the structural complexity of willow and the difference in morphology of the many varieties, at least 32 bird species have been recorded in SRWC. Arboreal species such as Tits and Warblers, ‘skulking’ species such as Wren and Robin, and migrant species also utilise the willow coppice. In west Wales, preliminary results from a study (by Llysdinam’s Wales Biomass Centre and IGER) using mist nets to evaluate the avian biodiversity of SRC recorded 14 species of birds within the cropped areas of first year SRC; and avifauna flocks of reed buntings (Emberiza schoeniclus) and finches were also observed.
Invertebrates: At least three times the number of plant-eating species spends part of their life cycle in the canopy of SRWC compared to conventionally grown barley and wheat (Sage & Tucker, 1998). Over 135 invertebrate species have been found in the canopies of willow, and almost as many ground dwelling and subterranean species have also been recorded. Between 70-80% of all of these species were found to be non-pest species and many of which were beneficial to the crop by predating on pests and therefore acting as a natural control.
Preliminary results from Welsh upland studies of SRWC have been encouraging and support the more general findings presented above. Evidence for upland Wales agrees with the lowland conclusions that the beneficial impacts of planting SRC greatly outweigh any negative ones and that these benefits can be enhanced through careful plantation design and sensitive management practices.
Negative impacts on the ecology:
The practice of growing SRC willow in monocultures, i.e. block planting of single varieties, poses high risk to rust as well as willow leaf beetle damage depending on the chosen variety. This could potentially lead to a dominance of a SRC willow habitat by a single pest species. Moreover, the spraying of crops with inappropriate insecticides can lead to non-target and beneficial insect damage, since most insecticides are not specific to their targets. However, in this case it is important to remember that planting guidelines recommend planting a thorough mixture of varieties and if done appropriately can prevent these problems.
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Lowthe-Thomas SC. Ground cover management for short rotation willow coppice in the uplands of mid-Wales. PhD Thesis. Cardiff: University of Wales (Cardiff University); 2003.
Rich TJ, Sage RB, Moore N, Robertson P, Aegerger J, Bishop J. ARBRE monitoring – ecology of short rotation coppice plantations. ETSU B/U1/00627/REP, DTI/Pub URN/ 01/768; 2001.
Sage R, Tucker K. Integrated crop management of SRC plantations to maximise crop value, wildlife benefits and other added value opportunities. ETSU B/W2/00400/REP; 1998.
Cardiff Scool of Biosciences.
The Power of the Willow Tree
The early spring festival of Imbolc, Oimelc or Imolg is one of the two great female fire festivals among the yearly cycle of four. Imbolc is celebrated at the beginning of February and, like the willow, is sacred to Brigit, Brigantia, Bride, being the maiden aspect of the triple Goddess. It celebrates her re-emergence as a young virgin from the mountain fastness of her mother Cailleach – she who is of winter, the burial mounds and dark places. Cailleach, the crone aspect of the triple Goddess, drinks from the well of youth and is transformed into Bride/Brigit who is her other self. This is the Celtic version of the Demeter/Kore story, representing the mysteries of life, death and rebirth. Imbolc is sacred to women and the power of the feminine principles of inspiration, illumination and seership. In Ireland, Bride is the Goddess of healing and smithcraft. The church transformed this festival into Candlemass and kept much of the pagan symbolism. It is a time of initiation and of beginnings and celebrates the renewal of the potency of the Earth Mother and the union with the male principle of the returning light.
The willow has much to teach us in its associations with our feminine aspects. By spending time with willows, or using the wood to make a talisman or wand, by taking it herbally or as a Bach flower remedy, we can deepen this connection. Spending time with willow trees at the full moon can only increase the potency of the insights and understanding to be gained. Working with the willow in the early spring, when the willow energy and the Earth’s energy are aligned, is also a particularly potent time to explore its aspects.
The willow has always been known as a tree of dreaming and enchantment, and it was associated in Celtic legend with poets and with spells of fascination and binding. This is the willow moon energy, which puts us in touch with our feelings and deep emotions, and it is the ability of the willow to help us to express these, let them out, own them and charge them in fantastical leaps of inspired eloquence and understanding. Our deep unconscious thoughts speak to us through our dreams. If you have lost touch with your dreams or wish to increase their potency, make yourself a willow wand and sleep with it under your pillow. You will find your dreams will immediately become more vivid and meaningful. Studying your dreams, writing them down, opening your intuition to interpreting them can lead to healing emotional problems and releasing tensions in your life.
This movement on the emotional level, of allowing the emotions to come through to the surface, is the power of the willow’s essential energy. Deep emotional pain blocks the energy of the body and can cause many illnesses. The willow will allow the person to move through the many levels of sadness, express the pain though tears and grief, and, by moving through these emotions, facilitate healing. The Bach flower remedy Willow is to be taken by those who have suffered adversity or misfortune in life and remain embittered by it. Willow will help the movement out of this negative state to a greater interest and involvement in the present.
When you are either over-stimulated by your feelings or cut off from them, connecting with a tree with a water attunement will greatly help. If you are attracted to a particular tree, then follow this and reach out to the tree with an openness and a willingness to accept your intuitive responses. Physical contact with a tree will help balance your body’s energy, and as you stand or sit with a tree you might receive some insights and inspirational thoughts. If you feel you have made a deep connection with a tree and want to end that communication, move slowly out of it and focus some love-light around the tree. It has been proven that the plant world is greatly enhanced by this. An attitude of thanks and gratitude for nature is also a sure way of opening up the channels of communication with trees and plants.
On a herbal level, willow bark has been used for its pain-relieving qualities for at least 2,000 years. The Salix alba (white willow, withe, withy) contains salicin, which is converted to salicylic acid in the body. Salicylic acid is closely related to aspirin, the synthetic drug that has displaced willow bark from popular use. Willow bark reduces fever and relieves rheumatism, a common ailment in these damp isles. A decoction can be used for gum and tonsil inflammations and as a footbath for sweaty feet. The bark is collected in the spring time, being careful not to ring the tree or it will die. The decoction is made by soaking 3 teaspoons (15ml) of the bark in a cup of cold water for 2 – 5 hours. Then bring to the boil. Strain and take a wineglassful each day, a mouthful at a time. The bark can be dried, powdered and stored in an airtight container.
Black willow (Salix nigra) is the pussy willow and has black bark as opposed to the light greens of the white willow. Its properties are much the same, but herbally it was used in the past as an aphrodisiac and sexual sedative.
Goat willow or sallow willow (Salix caprea) is used in very much the same way as the white willow, but sallow bark tea is recommended for indigestion, whooping cough and catarrh. It can also be used as an antiseptic and disinfectant.
Culpeper says in his Complete Herbal “The moon owns the willow” and it was known as the witches’ tree and the tree of enchantment. Robert Graves suggests that witch, wicker and wicked are all derived from willow. Willow rods are certainly used for binding magical and sacred objects and the popular witches’ broom is traditionally made with an ash handle and birch twigs bound with willow.
Willow wands are used for any ritual associated with the moon and as a protection on deep journeys into the underworld and the unconscious. The willow will always enhance inspired leaps of the imagination and is recommended to be used when seeking to assimilate the teachings of a wise woman or master, because understanding another person’s enlightened place is made easier. Also when seeking to understand ancient ways, so that you can assimilate these past levels of information, and quickly move through the underlying emotions, to appreciate humankind’s patterns and utilise this information for change.
By working with the moon and the cycles of the moon, we reconnect to the duality of the light (waxing) and the dark (waning) and the tides, the seas, water and the qualities of water which include flowing, surrender, harmonising and accepting. Moon magic puts us in touch with our emotions and unconscious, which balances out our solar rational conscious views. The moon represents the Goddess and everything which reflects and suggests the power of women.
Willow is used for charms of fascination and binding, and during the spring moon we have the power of the Spring Maiden who fascinates and binds the power of the young King. Aphrodite is associated with the spring and the bright half of the moon, courtship and the union which blesses the land with fertility. British and Irish mythology is also rich with legends of the beguiling, Willowy Spring Maiden who is called Olwen, Niwalen, Gwenhyver, Cordelia, Blodeuwedd and many others, who initiate the young King into a deeply sexual experience.
Tree magic generally falls into the class of sympathetic magic which operates through the doctrine of signatures. This states that a plant will act on that part of the body which it most resembles. This can be sub-divided into homeopathic magic (the Law of Similarity) and contagious magic (the Law of Contact, using a magically charged object).
Homeopathic magic words on the principle that “like begets like”, and by using willow wood for a wand or talisman it will be charged with the properties of the willow. The flexibility of the willow’s twigs inspires us to move with life, rather than resist what we are feeling, and can also help you to let go of conditioned responses to life’s experiences and to move towards a greater acceptance of self and others.
Willow’s weeping stance reflects its association with grief. By wearing a piece of willow (as in the popular song “All around my hat I will wear the green willow”) a person will be able to access all the levels of grief connected with a loss, and be able to move through all these different levels, expressing the whole deep emotional experience, to gain healing and inner strength.
When one of the willow’s branches or twigs becomes disconnected, it will easily grow into a new tree if it finds some soil and water, teaching us that contained within a loss, or a new direction, is the capacity for growth and healing. Willow is one of the best water-divining woods, along with hazel and birch.
Homeopathic magic and contagious magic can be combined in the making of wands, talismans and any other objects made for personal or ritual use. Making a wand from willow means that all the willow’s qualities are naturally contained within the wood, although you may want to charge or empower certain aspects for specific use. Willow wands are used whenever there is a need to connect with intuition, dreams, seership, visions, poetic and inspired writing or images, and whenever there is either an emotional numbness or emotional excess, or where there are negative emotional feelings which need to be worked through. Use a piece of fresh willow, cut from the tree with appropriate reverence and ritual, or a newly fallen piece which the tree has recently shed. You may like to take the bark, or some of the bark, off and carve it with magical symbols or anything else you may wish to use to energise your wand. It is easier to carve fresh wood and then let it dry out. Small twigs will dry out quickly without cracking in a house, but it is better to let larger pieces of wood dry slowly in an outhouse or shed, or under a hedge. When it is dry, it may be polished with several layers of beeswax to protect the wood, or left natural.
Talismans may be made in the same way, perhaps using the natural shape of the wood to suggest and inspire a carving. Talismans may be worn round the neck or as a brooch, or carried within a pouch and kept close. They may be magically carved with symbols relevant to their use.
Symbolism is not fixed, there are no correct versions of anything, and the willow particularly stimulates our ability to follow our intuitions and find out own meanings behind the symbols. It is true there are traditional meanings associated with things, but traditions must evolve and include new insights and ways of working. We may evolve a new set of symbols, particularly relevant to ourselves, which others may adopt and integrate into a new system. What was meaningful to people in one part of our evolution or history may no longer apply. Interpretations may no longer speak to the conscious or the unconscious. The patterns which a seer can unfold need to be potent and meaningful to our present spiritual evolution. We have been taught to regard our intuition as unreliable but we know that this isn’t true and we must use it more in order to develop our ability to use it to the full. The power of the willow can enhance this resolve.
From: – The Power of the Willow Tree
By Glennie Kindred
(Originally Published at Imbolc 1997)
Willow Variety
Salix Viminalis “Bowles Hybrid”
One of the most vigorous and hardy varieties of Willow commonly available. Because of its fast rate of growth (up to 8 feet in one year – including the first year!) it makes an excellent windbreak and can be used to make a ” Fedge “, and it tolerates wet, heavy soils and extreme conditions, such as cold winds on exposed sites or salty winds on the coast. Growth can be cut back each winter, providing heavy weaving material, or rods for living willow structures, and encouraging denser fresh growth, or left to grow taller and thicker which can be cut in later years for logs.
Install a Willoweave Fence
Guide to build, erect or construct a fence. We offer an installation service throughout Yorkshire, if you are outside the area a good landscaping company will be able to provide the service for you. If you want to DIY then the following guides may prove usefull.
Here’s a quick guide to installing your own Willoweave fence on flat or gently sloping ground using willoweave fence panels and posts supported by compacted concrete. The same principles explained here apply to fence panels of different sizes.
STEP 1 – Remove the old fence.
If you are costructing a new fence then go to step 2. If you have an existing fence that needs replacing, the first job is to dismantle the old fence. There is no special technique involved here, just get hold of a pry bar and a decent lump hammer and get to work breaking the panels up into manageable pieces. If you’re installing a fence where there was previously a hedge or trees, you may find our guide to removing tree stumps helpful.
If the old fence posts are still standing, dig out the first and last posts and cut off the intermediate posts as low to ground level as possible. There is no point in trying to dig out all of the old concrete post supports as the new fence posts will be staggered between them.There is an important reason for not trying to put the new posts in the same position as the old ones. If you were to dig out the old concrete post supports, you would probably be left with a hole far to big for the new posts, in addition, the surrounding earth would be left unstable through disturbance. This would mean using far more concrete than is necessary to support the new posts and the disturbed ground would make it difficult to compact the new concrete. It is always preferable to install new posts into virgin ground. However, the first and last post holes usually have to go in the same position as the old posts which often means using more concrete.
Concrete fence posts can also be reduced to ground level:
* Break the base of each fence post apart using a sledge hammer; this will expose the four steel reinforcing bars.
* Use a hacksaw or bolt cutters to cut through the steel.
STEP 2 – Post positions
You should now have a clear area in which to run your new fencing. The first stage of installation is to figure out where the new posts are going to be situated.If there are old post supports left following the instructions in step 1 then You now need to stagger the new post holes in between the old posts. This may mean you will be left with 2 half panels of fencing at each end of the fence run. No problem, willoweave can manufacture made to measure panels for this purpose remember this when ordering.If this is a new fence then you can start at one end.
STEP 3 – Digging the fence post holes.
If you are installing a six foot fence, you will need 8 foot posts that are 3×3 inch in size. For other height fences we can advise on post sizes. The post holes will need to be 2 feet deep. As a general guide, make the hole 9 inches square by 2 feet deep. If the surrounding soil is particularly light or sandy, increase the hole width by a couple of inches. The first and last post holes will probably end up being bigger than this due to the removal of the old concrete post supports.
Mark out the fence run with a line or string stretched between the first and last post positions. Hold the first post against the line and make sure it is vertical using a spirit level. Make a mark on the ground where the hole needs to be made.
If you have a pair of post hole diggers , you will be able to dig the post hole quickly and easily. If not, a garden spade will do but digging will become more awkward the deeper you get and you may need to get on your hands and knees to get the soil out from the bottom of the hole.
Try and keep the hole the same width for the entire depth and make the bottom of the hole flat, not rounded. The square bottomed shape of the hole will help prevent the post and concrete from any sideways movement during high winds. When you reach a depth of around 2 feet, drop the post in the hole and adjust until you have 6 feet 1 inch of post above ground level. This will be the post height, 6 feet for the panel with an inch to spare to allow for the post cap.
STEP 4 - Installing the fence post and panel
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Place the post in the hole and make sure it’s at the correct depth. The next step is to fix the fence panel. Using the fixings shown Using the angle brackets supplied by Willoweave attach one bracket per foot of panel height to the side framing timber of a panelusing 1 inch screws. It is best to attach these in a stepped fashion on either side of the framing timber. Attach the brackets to both ends of the panel at this stage. Once this is done attach one end of the panel to the post that has been placed in the ground.To avoid damaging the panel support the other end of the panel so it remains level and up-right. |
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STEP 5 - Mixing the concrete for the fence posts.
This method of fencing requires semi-dry concrete to be thoroughly rammed around the post. There are a number of benefits to using this method over wet concrete:
* You can continue to work on the fence immediately.
* The rammed concrete ensures no movement in the post.
* Wet concrete requires the post to be supported until the concrete hardens.
It’s important to mix the concrete to the correct consistency. If possible, use standard ballast and cement. (Another option is to use Postcrete which does not require compacting – you’ll need at least two bags per fence post and it will cost more).
A post hole will typically require a 25kg bag of ballast mixed with cement at a ratio of 4:1. The cement comes in bags of 25kg so you’ll need a quarter of a bag of cement to each bag of ballast.
Using a wheelbarrow and shovel, mix the cement and ballast together whilst dry. Once thoroughly mixed, add the water. Start by adding just a few cupfuls and mix well. You are looking to achieve a semi-dry mix, not a saturated concrete. A good test of the right consistency is to take a handful of the mixture and squeeze it. If it compacts and sticks together, the mix is correct. If the mixture crumbles by itself, then it’s too dry; if it runs or is soft, it’s too wet.
STEP 6 - Concreting the fence posts.
For this stage, you’ll need something to compact the concrete with. A length of 4×2″ timber is ideal, as is an old pick axe handle. Just make sure it has a flat bottom and is long enough and heavy enough to do the job.
Check the vertical position of the post against the line you set up earlier. Throw in a shovel full of concrete. Using the rammer, compact the concrete and then check the level and position of the post. Throw in another shovel full of concrete and compact. Repeat this process checking the post with a spirit level constantly. If the post starts to lean, simply ram the concrete on the side of the lean to bring it back level. Bring the concrete up to just below ground level. When compacting the concrete, the harder you ram the better so get stuck in!
Tip: Slope the top of the concrete away from the post slightly to prevent water laying against the timber; the post will last longer.
You now have the first post and panel in place. The position of the second post hole will be determined by the end of the panel. If the panel is in the way, it can be gently moved a few inches to one side to allow more room for digging. Or unscrew the attached end once the position of the second post has been established.
Once the second post hole is ready re-attach the panel at the opposite end, drop the post in and screw the panel before you begin to add the concrete. When screwing a panel to a post that is already concreted, make sure you ram the concrete again after fastening. This will ensure there is no movement in the post.
Repeat the procedure for all of the remaining posts and panels.
Don’t be tempted to pour water into the fence holes (unless you are using Postcrete, in which case follow the instructions on the bag). The concrete will set hard without being saturated.
Another method is to dig all the post holes and fix all the panels before any concreting takes place. However, this is only practical when using wet concrete or on short runs of fencing as you will need to get on the other side of the fence to ram the concrete properly.
STEP 7 - Finishing the Job
Finally attach a post caps to each post with galvanised nails, When fixing wooden fence post caps, always pre drill the fixing holes. They split very easily.The last remaining job is to remove the black retaining straps that larger panels are supplied with (small panels may not have these on) these can be cut with a sharp knife.
STEP 8 - After Care
Preservatives – All Willoweave panels have frame timber that is treated with preservative before manufacture. The willow is supplied in a semi-green state and is not suitable for immediate treatment, it should be allowed to age in situ and treated with a preservative once fully dry. Any wood preservative will do, however the traditional treatment uses a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine
Biomass for Electricity
The largest Coal fired power station in the UK located at Drax in Yorkshire have recently announced a large project for the development of Electricity generation from Willow Biomass. Details of the planned project can be found here
Using living Willow
Handling
Living Willow is willow that has been cut from the parent plant during the dormant season, after the leaves have dropped and the new buds have yet to break. This is roughly from mid November to mid March, but depends on the mildness of the local climate.
Freshly cut Willow is flexible and pliable but must be treated with some care as any living plant should be. Ideally the rods should be used immediately upon cutting however they can be stood upright with the butts (thicker cut end) in 6 inches of water in a dark shed or garage for a couple of months before use. If this method is used then the bottom 6 inches of the rod should be removed immediately prior to planting. It will have formed roots, which will be damaged on planting, and this section of stem will be deleted of natural rooting hormone, so new roots will not form.
The willow we despatch should be unpacked immediately upon receipt and used within a couple of days or stood in water as described above.
Planting
The ground into which the structure is to be planted should be weed free. We recommend cutting down any existing vegetation or mowing the area if it is lawn, the inclusion of organic material in the soil is always a benefit. Spread woven polypropylene (Available from most garden centres), securing with ground staples at 1 metre intervals and ensuring that the area covered is at least 0.5m beyond the structure. To improve the aesthetics the polypropylene can be covered with bark chipping’s.
Most willows are pretty tolerant of soil and wind conditions however they do best on heavier soils or where the water table is high. They also require lots of light so avoid shaded positions. Willow is very attractive to rabbits and deer so protection may be required from these pests.
Caution willow roots travel a long way and will seek out drains and other sources of moisture. They also transpire a large quantity of water and will tend to dry out a heavy clay soil – so do not plant near to any building or foundations. We recommend a planting distance of 1.5 times the height you will be allowing the plant to grow too from any structure, building or drain.
Your Own Fedge
The name being coined for a living willow fence / hedge is a Fedge, based on a criss cross pattern shown right, with vertical uprights at fedge ends and slanted weavers.
Getting Started
For a 15M long structure of a criss-cross pattern we would suggest you would need about 180 rods. The length of the rods will depend upon the finished fedge height. The table below can be used as guidance depending upon your fedge height. For extra strength straight upright rods can be included ( add 5o% to rods /metre below)
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FEDGE finished height (m)
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Rod length (m)
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Rods per metre run
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1
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2
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12
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1.5
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2.7
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12
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1.83
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3.2
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12
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2) Spread Polypropylene Mulch sheet to a width of at least 0.5m either side of the structure and peg each side down with ground staples every meter.
Cut small slits 1” long at the positions where the rods are going to be inserted and make a hole in the ground with a metal spike to a depth of 35 cm. Make the holes vertical for the two end posts and at 45 degrees in one direction for the criss rods and 45 degrees in the other direction for the cross rods. We usually plant about 20 cm apart with one criss and one cross rod emerging from the same hole in the polypropylene or as close as you can get them. For extra strength straight upright rods can be included, plant these half way between the criss cross positions. Do not firm in until the fedge is complete
3) Put in the end rods and all the angled rods in one direction.
4) Put in the angled rods in the other direction one at a time, butt end 1st and from the top down weaving them through the first set as you go.
5) Adjusts the spacing and angles to your satisfaction and tie the crossover points with tube tie, this will greatly assist with pressure grafting and help to guard against die back.
6) The criss-cross rods, which stick out past the end posts, can be spiralled around them and tied with tube tie if necessary.
7) The top can be left or finished by taking pairs of long rods and using a basket making weaving stoke known as pairing, weave then horizontally from end post to end post.
8) The tips of the criss-cross rods can be then woven into this row of binders – however any rod which is forced to go downward at any point will die back to this position as Willow sap will not travel down hill.
9) Lastly trim off all protruding tips, firm soil around rod butts and water if ground is dry.
10) The structure will start to sprout in March and new shoots need to be either woven in to the structure or the Fedge should be cut twice a year like a hedge say June and September.
